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“There’s no back and forth of us having to explain and convince [a choreographer] why a certain piece is okay or why a certain color works,” Jung says. “It’s just me and him being like, ‘Do you like that?’ ‘Yeah, I like that.’” “We have clients who we love our discourse with,” Bartelme adds. “They get us and we get them and it ends up being really exciting and has wonderful synergy, but we also have clients where it’s really difficult. Sometimes we have to do those jobs for money, and that’s okay, knowing full well that it’s going to be challenging.” Sometimes a director asks to change the costumes’ shade after they have already been digitally printed, or a lighting designer’s color selection overrides the hue of the costumes. Such is the reality of collaboration. Some of the difficulties in designing for dance boil down to deadlines and logistics. For one show, the fabric Bartelme and Jung chose for the dancers’ skirts draped weirdly and stuck out in the wrong places, so the night before, they decided to remake them all by hand. The dancers weren’t available for a fitting because of their union’s scheduling limitations, so Jung put on every leotard and had an assistant stitch her into the new skirts. But the fashion business, with its focus on capitalizing on trends and boosting sales with new accessories and fragrances, can be limiting in its own way. Jung, who worked in the industry before entering the dance world, describes her experiences as “a little stifling, creativity-wise.” “I don't think either of us is particularly keen on entering into the world of fashion,” Bartelme says. While their plan to create a tight edit of clothing doesn’t match with the prevailing retail practice of flooding shoppers with options, they have confronted the inevitable economics of running a small label.
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